Next up: shops. The Rue de Marseille has some gems. There’s (2) Centre Commercial, a multibrand store owned by the fair-trade footwear brand Veja that stocks (among other things) excellent madein- France chinos and men’s accessories of the leather-and-canvas variety. Pickings were just as good down the block at A.P.C. and Balibaris, two French basics brands (albeit at different stages) that get the details right.
This landmark contemporary gallery closes in December, following an Anselm Kiefer grand finale. But the attached bookshop, with its great range of niche magazines and art books, thankfully isn’t going anywhere.
The buzzy French dealer inaugurated an art-world hot spot with the recent opening of this gallery in a seventeenth-century hôtel particulier. Fall shows include French installation artist Laurent Grasso. Work by Perrotin collaborator Pharrell Williams will also surely find a home here.
A revelation of sorts when it reopened in 2007, this offbeat shrine to wild animals and human society comes packed with artful arrangements of taxidermy and tapestries, as well as antique hunting rifles and a staggering trophy room.
This well-situated temple to the Spanish master reopens this fall, following a five-year, $70 million renovation project that has doubled its exhibition space —which means more room for Picasso’s own hoard.
Our spin down Saint-Honoré complete, it was time for lunch at (3) Restaurant du Palais Royal. No less satisfying than chef Eric Fontanini’s fleshy red mullet was the sense of civilized tranquility in the (2) Jardin du Palais Royal, onto which the terrace and dining room look.